We are lucky enough to be staying very close to some of the most holy Hindu sites in India. This weekend, Shivani and I toured two of these towns - Haridwar and Rishikesh. Haridwar is a very popular local tourist destination and Rishikesh is considered more of a Western yoga haven.
I wanted to see Haridwar because it is the starting place of many pilgrimages to the north. It was a Holy Disneyland! We paid 205 rupees to go up 2 ropeways that each ended at mountain top temples. For all the fan fair, lines, cheesy yellow visors, and souvenir shops the temples were surprisingly uneventful. The locals have figures out the best way to nickel and dime the pilgrims in the name of all that is Holy. Every statue in the temples had a station where a man sat waiting to bless any passersby in hopes of obtaining a small offering. I gave my share of offerings so I could have the experience. At some of the stations they asked my name, country and marital status. Then they bound my wrist with red string while saying a prayer. The longer the string stays on, the luckier the prayer. Unfortunately for me one of my prayers didn't even last through the day. Maybe I didn't tip enough.
After the temple romping, we headed to the Ganga for some people watching and the evening ati (prayer). This takes place in Hari-ki-Pauri, where Vishnu left his footprint. They Ganga is diverted here, for a hydroelectric dam and people throng to the steps of the canal to bath in the holy river.
When we reached the river, Shivani and I were accosted by men wanting us to float a leaf basket containing flowers down the river as a prayer. We thought it would only cost the amount of the basket (10 rupees), but halfway through they prayer the "priest" was asking me to say aloud the amount I was going to donate for the upkeep of the place and to place the money on the basket. He "suggested" 500-1000 rupees as this is the amount that "most people" donate. He ended up accepting 200 rupees, because that's the amount Shivani stated, but I never verbally agreed to this amount. I knew that in my bag all I had was a 50 or a 500 and I wasn't going to give him the 500. When I pulled the 50 out he made a big fuss telling me a made a promise to god to give 200 rupees. I started to walk away, but he said the basket was mine and finished the prayer and I sent to basket off.
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| One of the hilltop temples in Haridwar |
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| Me after getting blessed in Rishikesh. |
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| Pilgrims in Haridwar carrying water from the Ganga to a location specified by a priest in order to bring good luck. |
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| Shivani getting ready to climb the mountain. |
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| View from the ropeway. |
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| Tying string to the temple. |
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| View from the other ropeway. It's amazing how a place so serene could be adjacent to a city so chaotic. |
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| In line waiting to get into the temple. |
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One of the largest lunches ever.
Afterwards we sat and people watched while people watched me. I definitely drew a crowd in the place were thousands of Indian gather from around the country, but few foreigners venture. The ati began just before dusk. Basically it is a large sermon on the banks of the Ganga. There were ushers who came around between prayers. They're job was to collect offerings for the ati. They would announce how much each person contributed in hopes of rallying their neighbors to outdo one another. The main ceremony involved huge flames and a lot of singing. It was beautiful. When the singing ended, everyone rushed over to the flames to bless themselves in the heat. We rushed to pick up our shoes from the shoe stall and rushed home, exhausted.
Then next day we rode a Vikram to Rishikesh, which is also along the Ganga. While Haridwar is in the valley, Rishikesh is nestled along both sides of the Ganga between the mother river and the foothills. It was much more calm than chaotic Haridwar. To add to the contrast our day in Haridwar was hot and sunny, while the time we spent in Rishikesh was filled with mist and rain. There was even a stark contrast between the souvenirs available at the two locations. In Haridwar most stalls sold kitchy Hindu paraphanalia such as bright orange clothing. In Rishikesh the shops sold typical Western souvenir clothes that reminded me much of what can be found along Kao San Road in Bangkok only all the buddhas were replaced with Ohm symbols.
We forgo the second ati in Rishikesh, which everyone tells us is the better of the two, but it was rainy and we were exhausted. Besides, I'm not sure how different sermons on the river can really be. But, it will give me an excuse to visit Rishikesh again. Perhaps next time I'll stay at an ashram and practice yoga to my hearts content.
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| Rishikesh |
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Offerings to distribute at the temples.
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| Crossing the Ganga in Rishikesh |
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| Rishikesh temple with a million bells. |
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| Me reading one of those million bells |
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Hanuman, the monkey god.
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| The Ganga from the temple. |
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Hari-ki-Pauri
Well Sorry folks. Blogger is being stupid and I can't seem to arrange the pictures how I actually want them (in order). So they above is a random assortment of my weekend!
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